Visiting Frankfurt: The Home of Goethe

My visit to Frankfurt was inspired by my two week planned trip in Heidelberg to attend an intensive German language course at F+U Academy of Languages Heidelberg.  With Heidelberg being situated, more or less, between Frankfurt and Stuttgart, it was a perfect opportunity to visit both cities.  Over the years, I have frequently visited Munich, which I absolutely adore, but I thought it was time to venture northwards, and begin exploring other great cities that Germany has to offer.  As Frankfurt and Stuttgart were both eligible cities to fly to when travelling to Heidelberg from the UK, the first question I had to answer was:  "Which one do I fly to?"

It might be down to travel/airline snobbery, but Frankfurt offered reasonable flights with Lufthansa, and as I am a loyalty points member, I was thinking about the miles.  Not to mention, I have always received great service from Lufthansa and have been quite satisfied with my all previous trips.  Plus for a two week stay, and needing the amenities, such as hold luggage, seat choice, on board meal and drinks, then the up front price is always worth it.

As the decision was to be flying to and from Frankfurt, I opted to arrive first thing on a Saturday morning and leave last thing on a Sunday night; giving me the best part of two days in the city.

Then came the planning, and as the trip was primarily a language learning adventure to improve my already advanced level of German, I bought Marco Polo Frankfurt travel guide in German.

Wanting to optimise my visit I planned to visit some of the most significant landmarks, churches, museums, galleries, and allowing myself to take in the sights at a leisurely pace.

Frankfurt itself is incredible, although I would advise all travellers to be vigilant when arriving at the Hauptbahnhof (the main train station) as it seemed to be a magnet for unsavoury characters.  It's quite a large and busy train station with all the normal amenities.

However, once you get away from the station and venture further into the districts, it is quick to see the beauty of of Frankfurt.

One great service at this station, and many stations in Germany, is the use of lockers, especially for travellers.  5€ to store a large suitcase all day.  Perfect!

Paulskirche

Paulskirche was a great bit of sightseeing when I first arrived in Frankfurt, and within 20 minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof.

It is swimming in German political history as it is the birthplace of Germany's Nationalversammlung (National Assembly) and German democracy in 1848, and continues to stand today to represent the democratic freedom and unity that is cherished.  Although, it looks like an old church, but don't be fooled.

From the outside, the building looks wonderful with an oval shape and a tower at the entrance, which the information found inside details the construction and the evolution of the building.  Even the almost complete destruction of the building during the second World War, like a lot of Frankfurt and Germany.  It is so sad to read, hear and see these travesties.  The entrance is just off the main road and Frankfurter Hof, that is a spectacular looking building.

Inside, there are two levels.  the ground floor is in the round (as the building is) with a mural painted around the centre circular column.  This depicts the evolution of the political establishment and MPs (Abgeordneten), and one can follow this all the way around.  Around the outer side of the building, one finds a lot of information about the building, and history of German democracy, battles, formation, and more.  There is a 10 minute documentary that can be played on a TV screen that summarises the history.  the upper level is the "council chamber" so to say,  It looks incredible, full of light and very bright, with all chairs facing one distinct point at the front, which looks like and altar, but is where the speaker of the assembly would stand.  On the outer walls hangs flags from all factions and states from history.  Truly amazing to see, and worth the visit.

However, a lot of information is translated to English, not all is, so some level of German is required.

Goethe-Haus

Anybody who is learning or has learned German, and has taken any form of formal examination, such as the Goethe Prüfungen set out by the Goethe-Institut, should be aware of the cultural relevance.  Goethe-Institut is named after the writer and poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and the Goethe-Haus Museum, with a separate art gallery (Gemäldegalerie) celebrates his origin, achievements, associations, and interests.

Goethe-Haus was one of the main places to visit during my trip, and I was not disappointed.  Located slap bang in the centre of Frankfurt and within 15 minute walking distance from the Hauptbahnhof (main train station).  I initially visited the art gallery, which is part of the "Haus" but is kept separate, and it is made up of a wonderful collection of paintings that displays Goethe's life and times, associations and paintings Goethe personally liked.  To highlight, which is a theme surrounding part of this collection and others found in the Städel Museum and the Kurpfälzisches Museum der Stadt Heidelberg, as the culture is very much intertwined, is the theme of the late Baroque to Romanticism.  I have developed a fondness of the Romanticism art, as it is predominantly of the late 1700s but depicts landscapes and nature, and a focus on human emotion and expression.

The Goethe-Haus is undergoing a refurbishment/treatment, but the majority of the museum is unscathed.  The house itself belonged to Goethe's parents and has its own story to tell as well as Goethe's.  Fascinating!  Goethe was born and raised here, and it was his family home.  Until he moved to Weimar in 1775, where he stayed (with interruption and travels) until his death.  Once again, due to the second World War, the house was destroyed, but later reconstructed in 1951.  The style of the house resonates Rokoko (as it is in German) bourgois, which is knowledge I picked up from my visit.

If in Frankfurt, go visit, because it tells such an amazing story of a person that is so intrinsic in German literary and art culture.

MMK2

I stumbled on this gem whilst wandering the streets on my way to the Städel Museum, and getting distracted by taking photos nearby.

The current exhibition is:  Das imaginäre Museum ß Werke aus dem Centre Pompidou, der Tate un dem MMK (An Imagined Museum - Works from the Centre Pompidou, the Tate and MMK).

The collection consists of an imagined post apocalyptic World but using past artworks from the likes of Warhol, Duchamp, Louise Bourgeois, and more, as forms of Nostradamus type premonitions.  Inspired by Ray Bradbury's Fahrenheit 451; a novel written in 1953 depicting a future where literature is outlawed, and all books burned as quickly as they are found.

Visitors are requested to memorise the works and recollect them at the end.  Out of respect, no photographs were taken, but some pieces of art have been publicised in the past, such as Warhol's Brillo Box and Campbell's Soup Cans.  The museum is closing the exhibition 10/11 September 2016 and the pieces will be removed, and "visitors will call the pieces back to consciousness.  Their personal memories and interpretations will transform the exhibition into a living museum."

One great feature of this exhibition is the fact that visitors can take away the information sheets as they can be torn off from a thick pad of prints at each item.

Being a fan of Philip K. Dick and George Orwell, I have a love for the post apocalyptic imagination.

My favourite five pieces from the collection are as follows, but I have included photos of the information sheets to this review.

Order and Disorder - Alighiero Boetti (1985-86)

Fall - Bridget Riley (1963)

From The Last Resort - Martin Parr (1983-86, printed 2002)

Ghost - Ron Mueck (1998)

One Million Years - On Kawara (1999)

Städel Museum

Städel Museum was also on my list and initially caught my attention when I read the "Travel Like a Local" post, which was shared on Yelp Manchester Facebook page the week before my trip.

The main exhibition in the museum is currently "George Baselitz:  Die Helden"  (The Heroes), but on a personal note, I wasn't a fan of this exhibition.  the style of the paintings were not to my liking due to the striking colours and ferocious painting, and the graphic nature of the images.  Baselitz depicts in this exhibition contorted and unsightly posed soldiers, that have been wounded in battle, or being wounded.

That being said, I was a big fan of the rest of the museum offering collections from "Alte Meister 1300 - 1800, Kunst der Moderne 1800 - 1945, Gegenwartskunst 1945 - Heute (today), and a graphics collection.

One can really spend a couple of hours here, and once again learning about part of the history of Germany though the perspective of painters and artists.

Some specialties and my faves were Van Gogh's "Farmhouse in Nuenen" and some from Munich painters. 

 

Palmengarten
An absolutely beautiful place to visit on a sunny day in Frankfurt.  Palmengarten is a botanical garden in the heart of Frankfurt, and it was such a joy to walk around during in my visit.  There is a lot to see, and visitors need time to see everything.

Quite fascinating information to be read in the Tropical House, filled with plants from different climates.  It takes some getting used to as one walks through an experiences all the different climates.

Deutsches Filmmuseum
Deutsches Filmmuseum is definitely worth the visit, and I was lucky enough to catch the Aardman Studios exhibition; reminiscing over seeing models of Morph and examining sketch/scrapbooks was quite special.  However, the most famous creation is obviously Wallace & Gromit, and great to see a collection of props, storyboards, and sketches from Wallace & Gromit, but also Chicken Run.  Such amazing productions of cinema, and a joz to see the exhibition!

The filmmuseum also offers a history of the development of cinema from early projectors to modern green screen, and also props and film posters from iconic films, such as Darth Vader's helmet from Empire, and an Alien costume from Alien!  The museum has a collection of original vintage film cameras.

Not to mention, other props from Tim Burton's "Nightmare Before Christmas". 

Eating Out and Watching Football in Frankfurt

Arriving back in Germany, one of the things lusted for was some traditional German food, such as Currywurst, so I found myself walking towards the Städel Museum, and having to cross river Main, I passed a wonderful restaurant by the river called MainNizza.  

The restaurant has a tremendous Biergarten (beer garden) overlooking the river, and after a whole day sightseeing, what better way to end the day than traditional German food.  I will tell you that the Currywurst found at Christmas Markets around the UK is mediocre in comparison to the real thing in Germany, and oh my, the Currywurst at MainNizza is absolutely delicious!  Definitely worth a visit: if not only for the view. 

Another great spot for food, drink a beer, and watch football is Waxy's.  One can always rely on an Irish pub to be showing games from the English Premier League whilst abroad.

Even native Germans resort to speaking English here, which is great for tourists, but maybe not so beneficial for language learners who want to keep in practice.

Food was great quality, and the beer was even better.  Great friendly staff, and an attraction for football lovers.

*Individual reviews of each place I visited can be found on Yelp and TripAdvisor